RECIPE 03: SECOND HELPINGS - AUTUMN
Wild Pine / Saffron Milk Cap Mushroom Risotto
Serves 4
Earthy, hearty and deeply savoury, this risotto is built from the ground up. Mushroom trimmings form the backbone, with a few simple secret seasonings. I often make this at home for Liz who is dairy intolerant, so have included some vegan alternatives for the buttery & creamy ingredients. 🍄
Ingredients
Preserved Foraged Mushrooms
500g foraged saffron milk cap mushrooms trimmed & sliced 1cm thick (remove any grit, dirt or pine needles by brushing / cleaning with a dry pastry brush)
2 x eshallots, peeled & diced finely
2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
½ bunch thyme
½ bunch rosemary
1 x glass of dry sherry
½ cup Extra Virgin olive oil
50g butter (omit for vegan or dairy-free)
Salt & pepper to taste
Mushroom Stock
Trimmings from 400–500 g wild pine or saffron milk cap mushrooms
1 small onion, sliced
1 celery stalk, sliced
1 small carrot, sliced
1 bay leaf
1 strip lemon peel (no white pith)
2 L cold water
2 tbsp white soy sauce
Risotto
400 g preserved wild pine or saffron milk cap mushrooms
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
2 eshallots, very finely diced
300 g carnaroli risotto rice
100 ml dry white wine
Hot mushroom stock, as needed (approx. 1.2L)
Sea salt and freshly cracked white or black pepper
To Finish (choose one)
Classic
40 g cold butter, diced
60 g mascarpone
50 g finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Vegan
40 g Nuttelex
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
3–4 tbsp nutritional yeast (to taste)
Method
1. Make the Mushroom Stock
Place the mushroom trimmings, vegetables, bay leaf and lemon peel into a pot with the cold water. Bring gently to a simmer and cook for 30–40 minutes. Strain, pressing lightly on the solids. Season carefully with white soy sauce. The stock should taste savoury and mushroom-forward, not overtly salty. Keep hot.
2. Preserve the Mushrooms
In a heavy-based frypan — cast iron or similar — heat the EVOO & butter and fry the mushrooms on a high heat with a generous pinch of salt & pepper. Once the mushrooms begin to take some colour, add the eshallot, garlic, thyme & rosemary and cook for 5 mins until the mushrooms are tender. Deglaze the pan with the sherry & reduce the sauce to a gravy consistency. Re-season to taste and cool in a baking tray. These preserved mushrooms can be used immediately in your risotto or stored in a container in the freezer for future use.
3. Build the Risotto
In a heavy-based saucepan, add the EVOO, eshallot and a pinch of salt. Sweat gently until soft and translucent, no colour. Add the rice, coating each grain. Cook for 1–2 minutes until the edges look translucent. Add the wine and cook until fully reduced.
4. Cook Slowly, Stir Thoughtfully
Begin adding hot stock, one ladle at a time, stirring regularly. Allow each addition to be mostly absorbed before adding the next. Maintain a gentle simmer.
After about 12 minutes, fold in the preserved mushrooms. Continue cooking until the rice is just tender with a slight bite, about 16–18 minutes total. The texture should be loose and fluid, not stiff.
5. Finish
Remove from heat.
Classic: Stir in butter, mascarpone and Parmigiano.
Vegan: Stir in Nuttlex, olive oil and nutritional yeast.
Cover and rest for 1 minute, then stir once more. Adjust seasoning with salt or a few drops of white soy if needed. Finish with pepper.
To Serve
Spoon into warm bowls so it spreads gently under its own weight. Finish with a little extra olive oil, shaved Parmesan or extra nutritional yeast, and perhaps a few reserved mushroom slices on top.
